Hair waving apparatus



Jul 28, 1936. R K E E 2,048,934

HAIR WAVING APPARATUS Filed March 14, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 4 33 6/ 9 6663 5/ 9f 68 7 WW7 k INVENTOR. 5040/7 M. Fez/z Maw/M A TTORNE YS.

July 28, 1936.

R. M. KEELE HAIR WAVING APPARATUS 5 Shets-Shet 2 Filed March 14, 1932ATTORNEYS.

-FIE 15 July 28,1936. R, KEELE 2,048,934

AIR WAVING APPARATUS Filed March 14, 1932 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 FI- 1E vINVENTOR. @0405 M fie e/e ZZZ A TTORNE YS.

Patented July 28, 1936 gran HAIR WAVING APPARATUS Application March 14,

3 Claims.

This invention relates generally to apparatus for the waving of humanhair, such as are adapted for use in professional beauty parlors.

At the present time practically all hair waving methods and apparatusesin common usage fall into two general types, termed spiral andcroquignole. In spiral waving a pencil-like curling rod or mandrel isemployed, and a strand of hair is wound about this rod in the form of ahelicoid, beginning with the base of the strand and winding towards thetip. After the hair strand has been wound upon the rod, the wound hairis covered with a suitable absorbent pad, containing a vaporizablesolution, and a tubular electrical heater is slipped over the assembly.The subsequent heating or cooking period renders the wave permanent.Spiral waving is subject to the following disadvantages:It requires ahighly skilled operator to secure uniformly good results, considerabletime is required to wind the strand upon the curling rod preparatory tothe heating operation, comparatively long heating periods are requiredat relatively high temperatures, and the resulting wave tends to bekinky and lacks a life-like appearance. In croquignole waving a two-partclamp is engaged with a flat hair strand, adjacent the scalp. Theextending flat strand of hair is then wound upon a curler or mandrel,beginning with the tip of the strand and winding towards the protector.During this winding the convolutions are applied one on top of theother. After all of the strand has been wound upon the curler, thecurler is mounted upon the protector, and then by further turning thecurler, the wound hair is placed under tension. Ratcheting or clutchingmeans is usually provided to prevent unwinding movement of the curler.

After the strand has been wound and tensioned, a pad containing asuitable vaporizable solution is placed over the curler and anelectrical heater clipped over the assembly. While croquignole wavingtends to produce a more natural wave, it is also subject to manyinherent disadvantages. For example, it is difficult to secure uniformtension throughout the length of the strand, even though considerabletorque is applied to the curler after being mounted upon the protector.As in spiral apparatus, a relatively long heating or cooking period isrequired at relatively high temperatures, due to the fact that the heatdoes not readily penetrate the several superposed convolutions of hair.Likewise the final tightening operation preparatory to heating the woundstrand actually stretches the hair a con- 1932, Serial No. 598,542 (01.132-36) siderable amount, and frequently applies a directv pull upon thescalp if certain individual hairs may not be securely gripped by theprotector.

It is an object of the present invention to devise a hair wavingapparatus which will be of 5 a distinctly new and different type, andwill obviate the disadvantages inherent in prior spiral and croquignoleequipment.

It is a further more specific object of the invention to devise animproved hair waving appal0 ratus which will enable waving a head ofhair in a minimum of time, without discomfort to the subject whose hairis being waved, and with uniformly good results.

Further objects of the invention, relating for 15 example to simplicityof construction, and ease of manufacture and assembly, will appear fromthe following description in which the preferred embodiments of theinvention are set forth in detail in conjunction with the accompanying20 drawings. It is to be noted that the appended claims are to beaccorded a range of equivalents consistent with the state of the priorart.

Referring to the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a side elevational view, illustrating 25 apparatusincorporating the present invention, to which a strand of hair to bewaved has been applied.

Fig. 2 is a View of the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 1, but lookingtowards the other side of the 3o apparatus.

. Fig. 3 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line 33 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line l-d of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line 5-5 of Fig. 3.

Fig. 6 is a plan View looking down upon the apparatus illustrated inFigs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 7 is a transverse cross sectional view taken 40 along the line'l-'I of Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a detail illustrating the construction of a suitable clamp forengaging the hair strand, such as is incorporated with my apparatus.

Fig. 9 is a side elevational view of a suitable tool to facilitate useof my apparatus.

Fig. 10. is a side elevational view in transverse cross section,illustrating a suitable heater for use with my apparatus. 50

Fig. 11 is an assembled view in side elevation, illustrating the heaterof Fig. 10 applied to the apparatus of Figs. 1 and 2.

Fig. 12 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line l2-l2 of Fig.11.

Fig. 13 is a plan view of the heater illustrated in Fig. 10.

Fig. 14 is a plan detail illustrating the preferred construction of theabsorbent pads utilized with my apparatus.

Fig. 15 is a side elevational detail, illustrating the means utilizedfor securing the absorbent pads to certain parts of the electricalheater.

Figs. 16, 1'7 and 18 illustrate diagrammatically the manner in which ahair strand is disposed upon my apparatus.

Referring first to Figs. 1 to 8 inclusive, one suitable embodiment ofthe apparatus consists of a frame designated generally at It. Carried bythis frame are a plurality of individual mandrellike forms which havebeen designated H to H inclusive and 2! to 27 inclusive. As will bepresently explained the number of individual forms utilized may vary,depending largely upon the length of the hair strand to be waved. Whileall of the forms may be identical in construction, they have beendesignated separately to facilitate explanation of manipulation of thedevice which will presently follow.

For the sake of lightness and cheapness of manufacture, eachmandrel-like form is preferably hollow and in the form of a metal tube,having the major portion of its length substantially circular in crosssectional contour. A suitable detailed construction is illustrated inFigs. 3

to 5 inclusive, in which the mandrels El and 26 appear. One end portionof each mandrel is preferably 'fi'are'd or belled as indicated at 3 I,the contour of this flared portion being preferably rectangular as shownin Fig. 1. Fixed within the other end portion of each mandrel there is ametal plug 32, for the purpose of assisting in the connection betweenthe mandrels and the frame Iii of the apparatus, as will presentlyappear. The mandrels, together with the plugs 32, are preferably made"of some metal which has a fair degree of strength and rigidity,together with lightness. For example, a suitable material is an aluminumbase alloy containing copper.

Th'e'frame it includes an elongated side mem-- ber 33, which can beconveniently made of sheet metal bent channel shaped to form a pair offlanged portions 34. A handle 36, made of suitable material such as aphenolic condensate product, is mounted upon one end of side framemember 33. Mounted upon the other end of side frame member 33, there isa suitable clamping device 37 adapted to grip a strand of hair adjacentthe scalp.

With respect to the details illustrated for the clamping device, a pairof plates 38 are mounted upon the end of side frame member 33. A pair'of relatively rigid bars 39 are fixed to plates 38, and extendsubstantially at right angles to side frame member 33. Another pair ofbars '4! are pivotally connected to plates 38 as by pivot pin 42. A link43 is connected to the free end of bars 39 by pivot pin 44. The freeends of bars 4! are formed hook shaped as indicated at 46, and areadapted to be engaged by a cam 31, formed upon a cam lever 18. Cam lever48 is connected to link 43 by pivot pin 39. Tubular members 5! and 52,of resilient material, as for example soft vulcanized rubber, arepositioned upon bars 39 and 4|. When members 5i and 52 are forcedtogether upon ahair strand, cam portion ill can be engaged with hookportions lfi, and by rotating lever 48 to a position illustrated in Fig.6, members 5i and 52 can be'fi'rmly clampedtogether and locked in suchposition. Note that the general plane of clamping device 31, as shown inFigs. 1 and 2, is at an angle of less than with respect to the plane offrame [0.

The mounting between the mandrel-like forms and the frame l 0, ispreferably such that a certain amount of self aligning movement of eachform is permitted, and also such as topermit the individual forms toslide longitudinally with respect to the frame. The detailedconstruction illustrated in Figs. 3 to 5 inclusive, consists in formingthe flanges 34 of side member 33 with beaded or turned edge portions 54.The adjacent ends of the mandrel-like forms including the plugs 32, areprovided with key hole shaped slots 56, to accommodate the beaded edgeportions 54 and flanges 35. This interlocked connection with the frameserves to retain the axes of the mandrel-like forms generally parallel,but suflicient tolerance is afforded to permit sliding movement uponside frame member 33. slot is relieved as indicated at 55 (Fig. 5),limited self aligning movement is permitted in a direction lateral tothe axis of each form, and substantially parallel to the planes of theaxes of form groups I l to I? inclusive and 2| to 27 inclusive.

It will be noted from Fig. 1 that the mandrellike forms I l and 2| areadapted to engage the resilient members 5! and 52 of the clamping device31. Thus when all of the mandrel-like forms are urged toward clampingdevice 37, the forms Q N to I? inclusive take the position in whichtheir axes are offset with respect to the axes of forms 2! to 27inclusive. The amount of this offset, when the sides of each row orgroup of forms are in contact, is equal to substantially one-half thedistance between the axes of adjacent forms. In other words as theapparatus is viewed in Fig. '7, the line of contact between two adjacentupper mandrel-like forms is directly above the axis of a lower form.

In order to yieldably urge all of the mandrellike forms together, andtowards clamping device 31, I provide a presser device 58. This devicecan conveniently be formed of a sheet metal member 59, bent to form sidefinger hold portions 6| and 62, and portions 63 and 64 adapted to abutthe sides of the adjacent mandrel-like forms H and 27. Member 59 ismounted upon a rod 65, which in turn is slidably disposed within a bore61 formed in handle 36. A compression spring 68 '1 serves to yieldablyurge presser member 58 towards the clamping device 31, so that all ofthe mandrel-like forms are normally urged together Likewise since eachin a direction laterally with respect to their axes.

One side of member frame member 33, and the other side can be guided bya strip 69, which slidably engages the channel shaped member H.

A suitable device for heating the hair strand retained by themandrel-like forms of my apparatus is illustrated in Figs. 10 tol5inclusive. This device or heater consists of a pair of relatively flatopposed members 13 and 74, which 59 is shown guided upon may be in theform of metal plates. Plates "I3 and 74 are mounted on elongated rigidcasings l6 and TI, whichserve to enclose electrical heating elements.The ends of casings 76 and 'l'l are mounted upon handles 18, which haveinwardly projecting tabs 19 connected together by pivot pins 8!. Asuitable spring 82, associated with handle 78, serves to urge members 13and M towards each other. The conductors of a flexible electrical cord83, serve to make electrical 'connection with'the heating elementscontained in casings l6 and 17. "Bypressing "m'anually'upon theprojecting portions of handles 18, it is evident that members 13 and 14can be forced apart.

Plates 13 and 14 are of ample width and length to encompass the exposedsides of the mandrellike forms. When in position to heat a hair strand,the heater is placed over the apparatus previously described, in themanner shown in Fig. 11. When current is then applied to the heatingelement, heat is transferred from plates 13 and 14, to the hair strandand likewise to the mandrel-like forms.

When sufiicient heat is applied to the strand to render the wavepermanent, it is desirable to have some form of pad positioned upon theinner sides of plates 13 and M, to retain various vaporizable solutionssuch as are commonly used in permanent waving. Thus, in Figs. 11 and 12I have shown suitable pads 86 of absorbent material such as cottonflannel, interposed between plates 13 and i l and the sides of themandrellike forms. These pads are preferably provided with a backing 81of parchment paper or like material, the edges of which can be sewed tothe flannel portion of the pad as indicated at 96. To retain these padsupon the heater, while the heater is being applied, I have shown each ofplates 13 and 14 provided with projecting teeth 88 upon which theparchment backing of the pad can be engaged. I also preferably provideeach of the pads with one or more apertures 89, as shown in Fig. 14.When the pads are in position upon the heater, these aperturesaccommodate bosses 9|, formed of non-metallic material such as phenoliccondensate product, and which project from the inner faces of plates 13and M. Bosses 9| not only aid in retaining the pads in proper position,but also facilitate escapement of steam and vapors during the heatingoperation.

It is generally most convenient to insert and remove the heater in alongitudinal direction with respect to the frame ID of the wavingapparatus. In this connection it is generally desirable to support themain part of the waving apparatus, previously described, by a cord 92(Fig. 11) having its lower end connected to handle 39 and having itsupper end connected to a suitable reel or other counterbalancing device.The heater can be provided with a member 93 apertured to receive cord92, so that in applying the heater it is slid downwardly and over framel8, and to effect removal it is slid upwardly upon cord 92.

In Fig. 9 I have illustrated a suitable tool 95 to facilitate arranginga hair strand upon the mandrel-like form. This tool consists of arelatively flat blade 96, formed of suitable material such as metal, andsecured to a handle 91. One edge of blade 96 is provided with projectingspaced tabs 98, to form a hair receiving slot 99.

In manipulating my apparatus, the operator first segregates a fiat hairstrand from the head of hair, such as indicated by numeral 9 in Figs. 1and 7. This strand is then engaged at a point adjacent the scalp by theclamping device 31. The projecting strand of hair is then combed outflat, and is permitted to extend along the outer side of forms H to Hinclusive. The operator now steadies frame l9, and then forces the blade96 of tool 95 downwardly between forms II and 12. During this operationtabs 98 are of course advanced foremost and since these tabs are atopposite edges of the strand of hair, the strand is received in slot 99.As the blade of the tool is thus advanced forms H and I2 move apart acertain amount, such movement being accommodated by movement of thepresser device 58 against spring 66.

forms 2! and 22.

The blade of the tool is twisted in such a manner that it passes betweenform 2! and member 5! of the clamping device 31. As the blade of thetool is passed between the forms in the manner just described, it isevident that the strand of hair is doubled and carried first betweenforms I I and I2, and then between form 2| and member 5!. After all ofthe blade of the tool has cleared form 2! and member 5|, continuedmovement in the same direction serves to carry through all of theremainder of. the strand: The operator then again engages the strandwith the blade 96, and then forces the blade between forms 2! and 22 andbetween forms H and i2. Continued movement of the blade in thisdirection then carries through all of the hair strand to the side of theapparatus upon which forms H to H are positioned. The fiat strand ofhair has now been looped about the periphery of form H, and has alsobeen looped, but in a reverse direction, about form 2!. The nextoperation is to carry the remaining portion of the hair strand betweenforms l2 and I3, and This serves to form another loop about theperiphery of form 12, and this loop is then in a reverse direction withrespect to the loop on form 2!. Successive operations of the samecharacter as described above serve to place the entire hair strand uponthe forms, preparatory to the heating or cooking operation.

The operation just described can be better understood by reference toFigs. 16 to 13 inclusive, in which arrow 1 represents the blade oftool95. The dotted lines of these views show the progression of thestrand as it is being placed between and upon the forms.

In connection with the above described manner of applying a hair strandto the mandrel-like forms it should be noted that during these operations the hair strand is placed under tension as it is looped. This isby virtue of the fact that the forms are always being urged together bymeans of the presser device 58, which causes the forms to be pressedagainst the sides of blade 96 as this blade is being passed through theapparatus. Likewise this tension is retained, as the side portions ofadjacent loops are pressed together between the adjacent side portionsof the forms.

To heat the hair strand after it has been arranged upon the forms, pads86 are applied to the heater and saturated with a suitable vaporizablesolution, and then the heater is applied over the forms in the mannerillustrated in Fig. 11. Heat is applied directly to the portions of thestrand which are in contact with the pads and also to the remainder ofthe strand by virtue of transfer of heat to the metal forms. When theheating operation has been completed, and the heater removed, theoperator retracts the presser member 58, the clamping device 31 isreleased, and the tip of the strand then pulled towards the ends of theforms which are unsupported. Since retraction ofthe presser device 58relieves the force tending to urge the forms together, the strandreadily frees itself from the forms.

In the manufacture and use of commercial machines incorporating myapparatus, I utilize a plurality a waving units, so that an entire headof hair can be waved in a single operation. The

number of mandrel-like forms incorporated in each unit depends upon thelength of hair to be waved. In general apparatus designed for taking arelatively long strand of hair, can be operated successfully on shorterstrands, although with apparatus which is to be employed permanently forshort strands, alarge number of forms involve needless expense andunnecessary parts.

In addition to the novel characteristics of my apparatus previouslydescribed, it may be pointed out that the steps necessary for applying astrand to the apparatus can be readily mastered by an operator, and canbe carried out in a minimum of time. No stretching or severe tensioningof the hair strand is involved and thus the apparatus can be employedwithout deleterious effect to the hair, and with a maximum of comfort tothe subject. No great amount of tensioning is required for the reasonthat the tension employed is uniformly distributed throughout the strandand to the separate hairs. A relatively short heating period is requiredto make the wave permanent and relatively high temperatures need not beemployed. This is for the reason that the heat need penetrate only asingle thin layer of hair and because the major portion of the peripheryof each form is in contact with the hair. This last. mentionedcharacteristic likewise avoids deleterious effect upon the hair and thesubject does not experience undue heating efiects. The wave producedfrom my apparatus is natural and like-like in appearance. The ultimatewave produced is of course not of the shape in which the strand isarranged upon the apparatus, but is of marcel character. It may be notedin this connection that upon removing the strand from the apparatus, itis turned through an angle of 90 to lie fiat upon the head.

I claim:

1. In hair waving apparatus, means for retaining a hair strand in theform of, aplu'rality-of connected loops with adjacent successive loopsreversely flexed, said meanscomprising a plurality-of elongatedmandrel-like forms, a pair of members adapted to engage opposite sidesof said means and adapted to be heated, pads of absorbent materialadapted to be inserted between said members and said means, said padsbeing apertured, and bosses formed on the inner faces of said membersand adapted to be received in the apertures of said pads. I

2. In a hair waving apparatus, a frame, two rows of mandrel-like formsslidably secured to said frame, the axes of the forms in-eaohv row beinggenerally parallel to the axes of the other formsin the row, and springmeans for urging said forms of each row together in a directionlaterally with respect to their axes, whereby said forms can be forcedapart against said spring means in the winding of a hair strand.

3. In ahair waving apparatus, a frame, said irameincluding asubstantially linear side member, a plurality of mandrel-like formshaving their axes arranged generally parallel, meansfor mounting one endportion of each of said;forms upon said frame for sliding movementlongitudinal of the frame and for affording limiting self aligningmovement between each form and the frame, and spring means mountedadjacent one end of the frame and serving to urge all of said formstogether in a direction laterally with respect to their axes.

RALPH M. KEELE.

